May 11 to May 30

 Leaving our anchorage has become  routine; as we headed out we knew that we are going to be heading to Carmen Island, staying at Puerto Ballandra. Ballandra is a very pretty, well protected little cove 9 miles due east of Loreto.  We enjoyed the snorkeling in the southern part of this bay; we even were not bothered when a Mexican cruise ship pulled in one afternoon and took the passengers to shore for kayaking and for a beach party dinner. We knew that this Isla is part of the protected wildlife preserve and that a slight fee was charged to go ashore on these islands.  They do not charge senior citizens!  Hank was again able to use the Hooka to check out the bottom growth which blooms in the warmer water.  

After several days of snorkeling, swatting bees and simply just enjoying ourselves we decided it was time to move on up the sea.  We headed to Isla Coronados which is 4 miles north of Loreto.  Guide books describe the island as an irregularly-shaped tadpole with the northern portion composed of volcanic remnants from a cinder cone.  There is a beautiful white sand beach with several picnic palapas. The people from Loreto come very early to try to get one of these neat spots.  The water is crystal clear and the beach is shallow for a great distance.  We went to the shore in the dinghy and enjoyed some fun snorkeling. 

Mothers’ Day was a hiking day for us, we rose early so that we could get to the top of the cinder cone before it got too hot.  We got to the beach before all the beach goers so it was beautiful to see it deserted.  I guess we were rather naïve thinking that maybe there would be a trail but we found none, so we started up the many volcanic boulders.  We climbed and climbed and it still looked a long ways away.  We would get to a ridge, thinking that once up on it, we could head up the ridge to the top.  Well there was always another ridge just up ahead.  The boulders were large and the climbing difficult.  Finally since this was Betsy’s idea to do the hike, and that it was Mothers’ Day, she said that she had had enough and was ready to go back to the boat for a nice brunch.   Water coloring and sketching completed the activities for the afternoon.

 We decided that since we were so close to Loreto we would go back there and do a quick shopping for fresh vegetables.  This was accomplished by sailing south to Loreto, anchoring outside the breakwater, and by taking the dinghy to shore.  We walked quickly to the store and were back at the boat in an hour.  Then we sailed off toward San Juanico, the wind picked up to about 20 kts from the south.  We talked to a boat that was anchored in San Juanico and it was experiencing winds and wave action.  We knew that there was another anchorage on the north side of the point.  It is La Ramada, which is a well set in cove that provides good anchorage from southerly winds in 2 fathoms of water.  The guide books say that it is good for about 2 boats, but when evening came there were four other boats with us.  A white sandy beach gave us some much needed exercise and exploration. 

 The next morning we started out sailing but after about an hour we had to turn on the engine to continue motor sailing.  We again marveled at the unusual rock formations and beauty of the landscape.  Gosh to have some greater knowledge of geology would be very helpful.  As we came closer to Bahía  Concepción the rock formations became even more amazing.  The one pictured here shows vertical striation, forming columns.  We turned the corner into the bay and were met by terrific sailing winds.  We headed for Santispac anchorage, but the wind was blowing down the canyon so we decided to go a little further to Hot Spring Cove.  We stayed there two days and enjoyed the quietness and the ability to explore with the dinghy.  Very close was a small island called San Ramon that was a pelican rookery.  The noise was amazing for the pelicans were constantly squawking.  As we slowing motored around the island we saw that the babies were at the very top of the island.  We couldn’t see the nest but we were able to see the white babies.  Hank has been fascinated watching pelicans fly and then plunge into the sea after small fish.  They are like a flying jet, they fly, glide, and just before they dive, they tuck their wings close to their bodies and plunge into the water from a distance of 50 feet. 

The weather is given every day on the net by Geary who lives at El Burro cove.  We had decided to anchor there and it just so happens that they were going to have a poker game on shore that afternoon.  Hank went and met some great people besides getting to know Geary.  It turned out that his next door neighbors were Edie and Larry who live about 30 minutes away from Auburn.  Edie was going into Mulege the next day and she volunteered to drive us there and drop us off.  She was a wonderful guide and took us up to see the mission and then showed us what to make sure that we saw as we walked around.  

We would meet her for lunch later in the afternoon.  She had gone to her painting class and we had thoroughly explored the museum, stores, date groves, and dive shops. Our lunch was at a place that the locals go for the food is good and there is always a fellow boater there.  Hank had a scallop special with chipotle sauce.  We were in town early, before many of the stores opened, but we were able to check out where Hank could get a hair cut, where Rotary had there meetings and where my parents had stayed many years ago.  The town has just recently had the streets paved and a bank has come to Mulege.  Local people are so pleased with the additions.  There is even work on a malacon along the river road to replace the damage done by one of last year’s hurricanes.

 Later that day we went back into town with Larry and Edie to have dinner with Terry and Evie who had invited them out to Poncho Villas for dinner and to listen to music.  Terry was playing and singing.  It turned out that Terry was a retired principal from Idaho but he had done his intern teaching at Crown Valley Elementary.  What a small world!

 One of the neat things about El Burro beach was Bertha’s restaurant.  You can enjoy a nice meal for a very reasonable amount.  Last night I had chili rellanos for 35 pesos. It is a nice thing not to have to cook every meal on the boat.

 Another place we explored at Bahía  Concepción was Playa Santa Barbara.  This is a beautiful palm beach with loads of shells.  We spent three days in this gorgeous bay.  Only one day did we even have another boat and they only were there for part of the afternoon.  We had cat fish around the boat and it was rather difficult to slip into the water with out having them all around you.  We did some fishing and caught two fish for dinner.  When we snorkeled it was so warm that we decided not to wear our lycra suits, which turned out to be a mistake because we both came back with stinging scratches from the seaweed. 

 After being at Santa Barbara we headed back to El Burro for the internet connection that was available thanks to Geary.  Yesterday was a typical day; we got up early and hiked to see some petroglyphs.  This site may have been sacred to Amerindians in the area because of a large, horizontal “bell rock” lying in the arroyo; when struck with a stone the rock resonates with bell like tone.  We came back to the boat and got our snorkeling gear and spent a delightful time exploring the rocky shore.  The fish are plentiful and so enjoyable to watch.  Then both Hank and I worked on a boat project.  Mine was constructing a wind scoop for the front hatch and Hank mounted two seats that go on the back rails.  We ended the day with a late dinner at Bertha’s.