


 |
Feb. 18
We
left Ipala at 7:15 AM for Chemala and were able to sail for 3 of
our 9 ½ hour trip. The winds in the afternoon are usually
stronger than in the morning and that was truly the case this
day. More importantly they were coming from a direction that
was not straight on the nose. We anchored in the northern part
of the bay in about 25 feet of water. There were already about
10 boats in this anchorage, but it is large and can accommodate
many boats. We had a wonderful night’s sleep in this anchorage
for it was very calm with very little rocking motion.
The
next morning Nancy, Mike, Hank, and I went walking into the
small
beach
town of Perula.
This
little town was about two blocks off the beach toward the
northeast. The beach has several beach palapas that have great
food. Town contained several stores, an auto mechanic, and two
hotels. We walked around looking for internet service and found
it at one of the hotels. There was also a great store for
fruits and vegetables, everything looked so fresh that we knew
that we would need to come back to do some shopping. Down the
beach about 2 ½ or 3 miles is another resort that Nancy and I
walked to one morning. This resort consists of about 11 rentals
that are right on the beach. It was really a beautiful setting
and as we looked out at the bay we realized that a whale had
come in close to us. We thought that we might be able to eat
breakfast there but there were no tourists and only the owner
who was doing some painting on the buildings. I didn’t eat
before we started this run/walk and by the time we started back,
my body was really crating some energy. I hadn’t been drinking
water so I
stopped
and starting sipping the bottle that I had brought. Finally I
decided that it might be best if I radioed Hank and had him come
pick me up in the dinghy. I got back to the boat, ate and drank
some Gatorade and was back to normal. Lesson learned – never go
anywhere with out something to eat and
drink along with you! We all went to shore that night and ate
at one of the many palapas. It was fun to sit there and watch
the activity on the beach. There were fishermen carrying their
nets down to their boats, kids playing soccer on the hard sand,
and children swimming. Hank helped one of the pangas move their
boat up from the water’s edge. They have several methods to do
this but the most common is to put empty soda bottles under the
boat and push the large, heavy boat on them. This takes quite a
bit of man power and Hank was able to help out. The
boys from La Solana had paddled their surf boards to the beach
and were able to have some fun riding the breaking surf. Later
their dad even swam out and tried his hand at the waves.
Unfortunately by then the surf was quite calm!
We
left Bahia Chamela
on the 22nd of February heading for a small anchorage
named Careyes. This is a beautiful little bay that has pastel
colored houses and two hotels either on the beach or overlooking
the beach. I was told that
this
was used for celebrity weddings but I am not sure of that. What
I do know is that it was about 3 hour’s sail from Chamela to
Careyes and that only two boats were able to anchor in the
northern lagoon. This is right in front of where a Club Med
used to be and the beach and palm trees are beautiful,
though most of the other building have been destroyed. The
beach of Club Med looks like the pictures I have seen in
magazines for get away weddings. After anchoring we went ashore
to see about using some of the facilities of the Careyes Hotel.
Many times, if they are not busy, they will allow cruisers to
use the pool if they buy food. This time when we checked, they
were expecting a large group of people from LA and were not sure
what time the following day they would be leaving. Since they
wanted to make sure that the guests had enough pool lounge
chairs, they could not say if we could come the next afternoon.
We would just
have
to come over and check it
out
the following day. The place was beautiful, but we didn’t want
to wait around just to see what happened. Going back to the
boat we had pretty much decided we would pull the anchor early
in the morning, especially since Hank didn’t feel comfortable
with the anchorage. The charts said the bottom was shale, corral
and sand, so even though we had tested the anchor by putting the
boat in reverse and applying pressure, Hank didn’t like it. We
woke the next morning at 7:30 AM to see La Solana pulling up
their anchor. We quickly were underway, going south toward
Tenacatita. The winds were mostly on the nose, so even though
there was about 8 knots of wind, it wasn’t a good angle. We
arrived at the bay of Tenacatita and were anchored by 12:00. We
heard over the net that this was the Mayor’s night out and there
would be a raft up party at 5PM. Each boat was to bring an
appetizer to share, a plate, your own drink, boat cards, and
books to share. We got together our things and headed over
right
on
time. By the time it was over, which was 7:30 PM, about 20
boats had participated. That is a great way to get to know the
cruisers that you are sharing the anchorage with. Tenacatita is
a large bay and many cruisers feel it is one of the nicest
anchorage. There are many activities like volleyball, bocce
ball, and Mexican train dominoes on the beach every afternoon
and in the morning water is glassy.
A
pair of dolphins is usually playing around the boats and they
are something to see as they swim and leap out of the water. Now
when you want to buy supplies at this anchorage, there are
several options. The most fun one is to take your dinghy and do
“the jungle ride” through the mangroves. This is about a 3 ½
mile trip that starts out going east and then makes a sharp left
turn to parallel the coast line. You end up at a little
landing, beach your dinghy, pay the man to watch it, and climb
over a small hill to the beach town. There you will find a
trailer park, hotel, a grocery store (small), and many palapas.
The vendors also sell along the beach when you sit there for a
beer, so it is also entertaining to see what is being sold in
this area. This jungle ride is well worth the time, even though
it is rather tricky to enter the river from the sea at low tide,
which is exactly what we did. The mangrove
trees
have been kept under control or I am sure that they would
completely grow over the river. About half way along the trip,
the river narrows and you find yourself going through a tunnel
of mangroves. Egrets both gray and white are all along the
way. I did see one mangrove crab but that is about all. When
we got to the store, we were able to buy bread, beer, vegetables
and fruit. If you want diesel or water you must go into to Bara
Navidad which is about two hours south. We did that on Friday
in the early morning and were able to sail right back to
Tenacatita by 3 in the afternoon. I must say that it would
be fun to spend some time at Bara for the hotel and surrounding
town looked beautiful, but that will have to wait until we come
back down this way next year. For with the sale of the house,
we must head back to La Paz so we will be able to fly to the
states and leave the boat in a secure place.
|