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We are sitting here at Cabo for another
day for the weather was not predicted to be the best and it
advised that we wait and see what develops before heading over
to Mazatlan. It is Sunday, the 12th so it is sort of
a down day when you consider that we have been on the Ha-ha
since the 30th. Here is how it went, we left
Ensenada in choppy seas and strong winds but that soon turned to
lighter winds and calmer seas. When the wind drops down to less
than 4 we start the engine and continue on, while others in the
group sit it out. We sailed for two nights and three days
before we got to Turtle Bay. Turtle Bay is a town of about 4
thousand people,
school,
church, etc and dirt streets. The rally is the biggest thing to
hit the town and they are ready for the opportunity to make a
little extra cash. When coming into the bay a pango, small
fishing boat, met us and wanted to know if we wanted any
lobster. Always cautious, we asked cuanto? And they replied
Halloween candy, tapes, or something else to trade. I quickly
got into my goodie locker that we use for treats for night
watch, and brought out a can of cookies and a can of peanuts
both of which had come from the dollar store. Using my fishing
net, they passed us two live lobsters and we put in the cans.
We all thought that maybe I should find something else for it
did look a little skimpy, but obviously not to them for they put
another two lobsters into the net. Now if you didn’t get that
high level trading, it was 4 live lobsters for $2. I but them
into the galley sink and when we had anchored and had stowed all
the sailing gear, out came my big pot and the crab boil. We
cooked them and then I broke off their heads, chilling the
tails. Later we had lobster tacos and then lobster egg
Benedict.
I had found these little tortilla like
English muffin type cups called sopes. They were perfect to
pile on some lobster, top with an egg and smother with salsa.
Great! We also had fished on that first leg and caught a nice
yellow fin tuna. The fishing pole is mounted on the rail and
Hank had just let out the lure and gone down below to use the
SSB radio. When he does that, the auto pilot must be off so I
was hand steering. No sooner had he left when I started yelling
for him. I am sure he was a slight bit miffed for he wondered
what now! I yelled you have caught a fish. We put it back into
auto pilot and started the Chinese fire drill. Now that we have
a fish, what were we going to do with it, this was not exactly a
fishing boat with deck hands? Hank started to reel in the fish
and I tethered him in, got my tether on, clipped onto the boat
and got the gaff. How do you gaff a flipping fish when the boat
is rolling and lurching to and fro?
Now picture this, I am standing on the
sugar scoop, which is the aft part of the boat that has
three
small steps to the water line, gaff in one hand and the other
hand on a boat rail. I swing the gaff aiming at the gill line,
while it is swinging and leaping on the line. On the second try
I succeed in connecting and now the fish is on the gaff.
Passing it to Hank he pulls it into the cockpit of the boat.
Luckily there were no lines or anything else to get too bloody
for when he started to slit the fish, it started to flop around
spurting blood all over everywhere. Hank was able to filet the
fish and I took it below to chill. Thank goodness we have a
fresh water wash hose at the back of the boat, for it took some
time to get the blood and scales off of everything. I knew
right then and there that if we were going to continue to fish
that we had to come up with a better way to bring the fish on
board. Since that time, after talking to many other experienced
cruisers we have devised our own method of attack and we are
quite good at it. That beautiful fish was cooked the first
night at Turtle Bay with a balsamic, marmalade sauce, risotto
and zucchini. We again used more of it to have some wonderful
fish tacos made on harina integral tortillas that I had gotten
at the tortillaria in Ensenada. We gave the rest of the fish
away to a wonderful man Tom who came over and spent about an
hour or more helping to correctly program our SSB radio. Tom is
a retired dot com genius who very graciously helped so many of
us with our radios. I am sure it would have been very expensive
with out him and the manual is one of those that was probably
translated from Japanese or by a Japanese speaking person, for
it was clear as mud about the programming capabilities of the
new radio. When things are done incorrectly in the
commissioning process, it is hard to check, for they appear
correct at the time. It is only when out in the real world that
you discover that things are not what they should be.
Well back to turtle bay, we went into town
by dingy to visit a small water front café for lunch. We didn’t
go to the place where most of the cruisers were for there were
about
640 of us and we did want to eat. I forgot to say that when we
reached the dingy dock, several local boys were there to watch
you dingy and help you up the ladder. That service cost 10
pesos, $1. Our lunch for the three of us consisted of two fish
tacos each, beans, chips and guacamole, and 5 beers for 150
pesos. There were activities planned for the two days that we
would be at anchor. These included a lobster dinner at the
Hotel Veracruz, and a beach party pot luck the following day.
Now since we had just had a nice late lunch we went to the Vera
Cruz but mainly to meet people. We took a panga
back
to our boat and slept soundly. The next day was to be the big
pot luck beach party and I made a corn, black bean, tomato,
cilantro salad that I had found in a magazine. Not having a
large salad bowl, I put the salad in my crab pot and secured the
lid for the boat ride. We had wonderful time talking to other
cruisers and milling around. The local town’s people also
sold
food and beer so there was no shortage of things to eat. The
entertainment was a very loud DJ and boom box, playing all sorts
of old favorites. We didn’t wait till the last dog to get a
panga back to the boat for it is difficult to do once it gets
dark. Luckily we had purchase a battery operated light that
looks like something the police would quickly slap on top of
their car except our led lights are purple and they rotate.
This is wonderful for we can always spot our boat no matter how
dark it becomes.
The next stop was Bahia Santa Maria which
is right near Magdalena Bay. It is a beautiful large bay that
could easily accommodate many boats. There is a fishing camp
there that the people of La Paz used to put on a fish dinner for
us. It was a great party and to think that the people drive all
that ways across the desert.
It was such a beautiful anchorage that
many people wish that we were staying longer than two days. It
was great because we were able to relax and enjoy ourselves. The
fleet left early the next morning to do the day and a half sail
down to Cabo San Lucas. It was a light wind sail so we tried
out our new spinnaker in the light air.
We
know another boat got a picture of it flying but we were not
able to contact them yet. When we get it I will pass it on to
all. Richard who organizes the
Ha-Ha
does a wonderful job of discouraging folks from getting a slip
in the marina at Cabo. He is assigned so many that he gives out
by order of registration. The problem with the marina is that
it is really for large, expensive fishing boats and cruisers so
when the sail boats come in they have to raft up, three deep, at
a dock. Now rafting up for $160 US is very pricy. The
alternative is to anchor out in the bay and put up with the
rented water craft, waves and cruise line traffic.
The last night in Cabo the anchorage was
terrible, I thought that I would have to put up the lea clothes
to keep from falling out of bed. You would have thought that we
were still making an ocean passage! So needless to say I really
wanted to get out of there. We did have fun in Cabo, we went to
Squid Row and I was picked to have my birthday celebrated and
then given a jello shot to swallow.
Since
the shot was the size of a cupcake with two shots of tequila in
it, I was not sure that it was going to go down. The place was
one of those fun types where there was always something
happening. They tried to haul us off to a chair and pour more
tequila down my throat, but I adamantly declined. The other
activity was the following day at Mangos on the Beach. We all
arrived and the place was jumping. When not doing things with
the Baja fleet we walked around town and went to the port
captain to do our check in and out papers. Since we had already
cleared into the country in Ensenada it was a lot easier for
us.
We
sailed off in the early morning, Monday, having stayed one extra
day, due to bad weather ahead. We watched the radar and saw
that we needed to alter our course or we would be heading right
into a squall. We sailed and motored across to Mazatlan and
arriving at 1:00 pm. We were told that you had to contact El
Cid hotel to see what was happening with the dredge in the
channel in front of the hotel. We were told that they would
stop at 2:15 and that we should wait. Well, we started doing
circles around and then watched a fishing boat enter the
channel. So, we decided to do it too.
We approached the channel with waves all
around us, just as we got close we felt there was not room and
started to turn around in the surf. The dredge operator waved
us forward, so we finished our turn and slowed inched forward.
It was very close with the dredge on one side and rocks and surf
on the other side. Thank goodness this boat is so much easier
to maneuver than our last boat. We made it and easily got our
dock assignment and tied up at Marina Mazatlan. This is a
beautiful circle harbor that they will be building houses and
condos around the circle of the channel. That first night we
invited several Ha-Ha cruisers to our boat for margaritas. It
turned out that some invited others and we ended up with about
15 on the boat till the tequila ran out. We slept and cleaned
the boat that next day and at 4, eleven of us got on the bus to
go out to eat. We topped off a wonderful dinner by stopping to
have an ice cream cone at an ice cream shop. Our trip back was
by truck that has seats set up in the back. That is not quite
as dangerous as it sounds, but it was a quick ride. Last night
we had a pot luck dinner at a catamaran that was in the Ha-Ha
and who had sailed from Kauai to do the rally. We have
connected to the net here in the marina or people who are around
the area. They plan activities and it is like a community that
keeps in touch thru radio. Tomorrow night is a gathering at the
Panama restaurant for a margarita party. On Thanksgiving we are
signed up for the dinner and there is a blessing of the boats in
the morning. There is also a race on Dec 1 and 2 that many of
the cruisers are doing. It can be a 10K, half marathon, or a
marathon. They say that there will be thousands of people and
that it only costs $10 to enter. Some say they enter just for
the goodies and don’t always run.
I guess this is enough for now,
we are having fun and meeting some neat people. Oh, yes, the
vegetable man comes three times a week here and has wonderful
fruit and veggies. I think that some of the people here are
here permanently since it is so nice. |